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Tom's
Head, Ashdown Gorge
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Distance:
9.8 miles (plus 19 miles by
car)
Walking
time:
6 hours
Elevations:
3,460 ft. loss
Rattlesnake Trailhead
(start):10,460 ft.
Coal Creek: 7,000 ft.
Trail:
Trail is poorly maintained,
but generally easy to follow.
The last 3.4 miles of the hike
involve wading through a shallow,
rocky creek in the bottom of
the Ashdown Gorge, so be sure
to wear wettable boots. Sneakers
and sandals are not recommended.
Season:
Midsummer to mid-fall. The higher
elevations are usually covered
with snow from mid-November
until mid-June, making the trail
difficult to follow. For current
conditions call the Visitor
Center, Cedar Breaks National
Monument, at (801) 586-0787,
or the Cedar City Ranger District,
Dixie National Forest, at (801)
865-3200.
Vicinity:
Cedar Breaks National Monument,
near Cedar City
This
diverse hike has something for
almost everyone-from high alpine
wilderness to a walk through
a narrow limestone river gorge.
There are also several nice
views of the Cedar Breaks along
the way. Finally, during most
of the summer you will be unlikely
to meet other hikers along this
trail, and the solitude makes
it an even more pleasant way
to spend a day.
Although
the hike can easily be completed
in one day, many people prefer
to extend it to a two or three
day backpack trip. There is
plenty to see. Ashdown Creek
originates in the Cedar Breaks
Amphitheater, about 1,500 feet
below the Visitor Center, and
a nice side trip is to walk
upstream along the creek into
the amphitheater. The Park Service
does not allow camping in this
area, however, so if you intend
to do this you should establish
a camp on the west side of the
park boundary.
From
Rattlesnake Trailhead the route
meanders gently downhill in
a westerly direction along the
northern boundary of Cedar Breaks
National Monument. The trail
is faint in a few places, but
it is well defined by blaze
marks on the trees and occasional
cairns. Short spur trails leave
the main trail in at least two
places for viewpoints along
the rim. Be sure to take advantage
of these side excursions.
After
about 1.5 miles you will see
Snow Ridge just south of the
trail, so called because of
the white rock along the top
of the ridge. Here the route
suddenly becomes steeper as
it cuts down below the ridge
on its way to Stud Flat. Stud
Flat, a large rolling meadow
above the confluence of Tri
Story Canyon and Rattlesnake
Creek, is extremely photogenic
and a good place for a brief
rest stop. Be sure to spend
some time enjoying the view
because soon you will be in
the bottom of a timbered canyon.
From
the western side of Stud Flat
the trail continues dropping
down into Rattlesnake Canyon,
reaching the creek after a descent
of some 600 feet. If you are
interested in camping along
Rattlesnake, there is a particularly
good campsite about 0.7 mile
downstream from the point where
the trail first reaches the
water. Finally, after following
the creek for 1.6 miles you
will come to a trail junction
where a sign identifies the
High Mountain Trail on the right.
Here the Ashdown Gorge Trail
leaves Rattlesnake Creek, climbing
slightly up the south side of
the creek and swinging around
in a wide turn to the east to
meet Ashdown Creek. As you leave
Rattlesnake be sure to start
looking for a strong, straight
stick to use as a walking stick
over the last section of the
hike through Ashdown Gorge.
The trail crosses Ashdown Creek
on the eastern end of the gorge,
1.1 miles after leaving Rattlesnake
Creek.
As
stated earlier, Ashdown Creek
also forms a natural route into
the Cedar Breaks Amphitheater,
below the rim of Cedar Breaks
National Monument. If you wish
to make a side trip into this
area it is about 4 miles upstream
from the beginning of Ashdown
Gorge. You can also see the
remains of an old saw mill 0.5
mile upstream from the gorge.
(The saw mill is on private
land, so do not molest it in
any way.)
Your
shuttle car is positioned 3.4
miles downstream from the east
entrance of Ashdown Gorge, but
before proceeding into the gorge
you should reassess the weather.
If there is any chance of rain,
stay out! Ashdown Creek drains
a large area that includes the
entire Cedar Breaks amphitheater,
and the water level of the creek
can rise very quickly during
a rainstorm. There is no way
out of the narrowest sections
of the gorge, so if it looks
like rain, dont take a
chance.
If
the weather looks bad, there
is another route that leads
to Highway 14 without entering
the gorge. Just continue following
the trail across Ashdown Creek.
The trail soon crosses a jeep
road and then continues in a
southerly direction up Potato
Hollow. After 2.9 miles the
trail reaches Crystal Spring,
where it meets another jeep
road that leads to Highway 14.
The total distance from Ashdown
Creek to the highway by this
route is 3.9 miles. Unfortunately,
however, the trail meets the
highway 5.8 miles upcanyon from
the pullout where your shuttle
car is parked.
For
most people the highlight of
this hike is the final 3.4 mile
walk through Ashdown Gorge.
From the east entrance the gorge
gradually deepens until the
walls on either side reach a
height of 600 feet. After 1.0
mile you will pass by the junction
of Rattlesnake Creek and Ashdown
Creek. Notice the 100-foot-high
limestone monolith, locally
known as Toms Head
at the mouth of Rattlesnake
Creek. Then another 1.0 mile
of walking downstream from Rattlesnake
Creek will bring you to the
next point of interest, Flanigan
Arch.
Flanigan
Arch is a large natural arch,
about 200 feet wide, positioned
high on the north wall near
the deepest part of the gorge.
Unfortunately it is difficult
to spot and many hikers miss
it. If you are wading in the
river it is only visible along
a 100-foot-long stretch of the
creek bed, and if you are walking
too close to the north wall
you wont be able to see
it at all. Keep an eye on your
watch, and after you have walked
about 20 minutes downstream
from Toms Head start walking
on the south side of the river
and look up frequently. The
stretch of river below the arch
runs directly magnetic west,
with a wide rocky shore on the
south side.
From
Flanigan Arch it is another
1.4 miles through the western
portion of the gorge to Highway
14. After passing Long Hollow
and Crow Creek you will see
the highway above the south
shore of the stream. When you
reach the concrete spillway
in the streambed you should
see a short jeep road leading
up to the pullout where your
shuttle car is parked.