Capitol
Reef National Park was
established because of the scenic rock domes and narrow
canyons found along the trace of the Waterpocket Fold.
Indeed, the park boundaries were drawn to encompass
most of the Fold. Capitol Reef is a place to enjoy the
scenic majesty formed by geologic processes, and also
to appreciate the interrelationships between the Earth
and all life found in the varied environments within
the park - - from the forested slopes of Thousand Lake
Mountain, to the green oasis of Fruita, to the barren
Bentonite Hills.
The
Waterpocket Fold defines Capitol Reef National
Park. A nearly 100-mile long warp in the Earth's crust,
the Waterpocket Fold is a classic monocline: a regional
fold with one very steep side in an area of otherwise
nearly horizontal layers. A monocline is a "step-up"
in the rock layers. The rock layers on the west side
of the Waterpocket Fold have been lifted more than 7000
feet higher than the layers on the east. Major folds
are almost always associated with underlying faults.
The Waterpocket Fold formed between 50 and 70 million
years ago when a major mountain building event in western
North America, the Laramide Orogeny, reactivated an
ancient buried fault. When the fault moved, the overlying
rock layers were draped above the fault and formed a
monocline.
More recent uplift of the entire Colorado Plateau and
the resulting erosion has exposed this fold at the surface
only within the last 15 to 20 million years. The name
Waterpocket Fold reflects this ongoing erosion of the
rock layers. "Waterpockets" are basins that
form in many of the sandstone layers as they are eroded
by water. These basins are common throughout the fold,
thus giving it the name "Waterpocket Fold".
Erosion of the tilted rock layers continues today forming
colorful cliffs, massive domes, soaring spires, stark
monoliths, twisting canyons, and graceful arches.
The most scenic portion of the Waterpocket Fold, found
near the Fremont River, is known as Capitol Reef: "capitol"
for the white domes of Navajo Sandstone that resemble
capitol building rotundas, and "reef" for
the rocky cliffs which are a barrier to travel, like
a coral reef.
Nearly
10,000 feet of sedimentary strata are found in the Capitol
Reef area. These rocks range in age from Permian (as
old as 270 million years old) to Cretaceous (as young
as 80 million years old.) The Waterpocket Fold has tilted
this geologic layercake down to the east. The older
rocks are found in the western part of the park, and
the younger rocks are found near the east boundary.
This layer upon layer sequence of sedimentary rock records
nearly 200 million years of geologic history. Rock layers
in Capitol Reef reveal ancient climates as varied as
rivers and swamps (Chinle Formation), Sahara-like deserts
(Navajo Sandstone), and shallow ocean (Mancos Shale).
Erosion.
Most of the erosion
that carved today's landscape occurred after the uplift
of the Colorado Plateau sometime within the last 20
million years. Most of the major canyon cutting probably
occurred between 1 and 6 million years ago.
Even in this desert climate, water is the erosional
agent most responsible for the carving of the landscape.
The pull of gravity, in the form of rock falls or rock
creep, plays a major role in the shaping of the cliff
lines. Wind is a minor agent of erosion here.
The landforms are a result of different responses of
the various rock layers to the forces of erosion. Hard
sandstone layers, like the red Wingate and the white
Navajo Sandstones, form cliffs. Softer, shale layers,
like the Chinle Formation, form slopes and low hills.
The barren slopes found in many areas are due in part
to the presence of bentonitic clays in the shale which
make an inhospitable environment for plants.
The black boulders, found scattered throughout the Fremont
River valley and along other drainage's, are recent
geologic arrivals to Capitol Reef. These volcanic rocks
came from the 20 to 30 million year old lava flows which
cap Boulder and Thousand Lake Mountains. The boulders
made their way to Capitol Reef during the Ice Ages when
the High Plateaus supported small mountain glaciers.
Landslides, debris flows, and possibly heavy stream
outwash from these glaciers carried the boulders to
lower elevations in the park.
Cathedral
Valley
The
scenery of the Entrada Sandstone temples of Cathedral
Valley is complemented by evidence of other geologic
processes at work. Flowage and dissolution of gypsum,
a soluble mineral from the underlying Carmel Formation,
created Glass Mountain and the Gypsum Sinkhole. Glass
Mountain is an exposed plug of gypsum. The Gypsum Sinkhole
formed when a gypsum plug dissolved. Dikes and sills,
which are thin bodies of igneous rock and small volcanic
plugs, are found in Upper Cathedral Valley. These features
formed during volcanic activity 3 to 6 million years
ago.