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Between
the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River and the Utah state
boundary line lies an area commonly referred to as the
Arizona Strip. Here a colorful history blends the long
past of Native Americans in the area with the culture
of Spanish explorers and Mormon settlers.
The
prehistory of the Arizona Strip area goes back at least
eight thousand years. The aborigines of that time, identified
as the Archaic people, were big game hunters and gatherers.
In time, the people became villagers, often referred to
as "basketmakers." The Anasazi are thought to have inhabited
the Strip for a time, and the area was later inhabited
by the Paiute Indians. The Paiutes' dominance of the area
diminished as they encountered the Europeans.
The
European era apparently commenced with the exploratory
journey of Fathers Dominguez and Escalante in 1776. Returning
from Utah Valley to Santa Fe, they wintered in the Arizona
Strip, fording the Colorado River at what is now called
the "Crossings of the Fathers."
Following
their exploration, the fur trader Jedediah Smith visited
the area in 1826. He followed the Dominiguez and Escalante
Trail to St. George and then followed the Virgin River
to its junction with the Colorado River. Other explorers
followed, with the area eventually opening for pioneers.
Mormon
pioneers expanded into the area north of the Strip during
the 1850s. In the fall of 1858, Jacob Hamblin, the Mormon
explorer and Indian worker, made a trip through the Strip
on his way to the Hopi villages. This was followed by
many other trips, allowing Hamblin to become better acquainted
with the area. To him the land was a dry, silent, sprawling
area, able to sustain life only if a person knew the locations
of springs and washes and marshes; he felt it was too
desolate to settle. He viewed the area only as land to
pass through when traveling to other destinations. Most
Mormon pioneers agreed as they expanded into the northern
and central parts of Arizona.
However,
four villages eventually were founded on the Strip. The
oldest was Littlefield, a way station set up in 1857 by
Harry W. Miller. The largest was Fredonia, just across
the Utah-Arizona state line, established by the Mormons
as part of their expansion into the southern Utah area.
Mount Trumbull became a center of Mormon activity when
the decision was made to build a Mormon temple in St.
George. Timber for the temple came from Mount Trumbull,
the only place in the area with timber large enough for
the beams of the building, even though it was eighty miles
away. Pipe Spring, established by James M. Whitmore, was
the focal point of cattle ranching on the Strip. Whitmore
and his herdsmen were killed in 1866 by Indians. Brigham
Young soon thereafter purchased their claims for a church-owned
cattle herd. A fort was built at the spring, and the workers
on the temple used the butter and cheese produced at the
fort.
Cattle
ranching became the main focus on the Strip in the late
1800s. After the completion of the temple, the land and
fort at Pipe Spring was sold by the church to individuals
who called their holdings, "The Winsor Stock Growing Company."
In 1878 it was merged with the Canaan Cattle Company.
Soon the whole area in Canaan Valley was overgrazed. Other
stock corporations were formed throughout the Strip, also
resulting in overgrazing of the land. This created problems
with the Indians, which eventually led to the expulsion
to reservations of the Indians from the Strip.
When
Preston Nutter legally gained the water rights from the
Mormons, a major change took place on the Strip. Nutter
took control of the Strip and introduced the Texas longhorn
to the area, building a cattle kingdom. However, due to
drought and overgrazing, the herd had to be cut back drastically.
The situation was compounded by the introduction of sheep
into the area as a winter range. The continued overgrazing
and drought conditions led to the passing of the Taylor
Grazing Act and the formation of the Taylor Grazing Service,
which controlled the number of cattle and sheep allowed
to graze on the land. This reduced the number of ranches
on the Arizona Strip.
Perhaps
the one decision creating the greatest impact on the Arizona
Strip was the formation of the boundary line between Utah
and Arizona. The Arizona Strip was originally in the Utah
Territory. The issue of slavery affected the decision
creating the boundaries of the territory. The Missouri
Compromise of 1820 had allowed slaves south of 36[[ring]]
30". When the land was gained from Mexico in 1848, a great
debate took place in Congress over the northern boundary
of Arizona Territory. A compromise was finally reached
with the stipulation that the northern boundary would
be at thirty-seven degrees, placing the Strip in the Arizona
Territory. Had they followed the natural boundary of the
Colorado River, the Arizona Strip would have been part
of the southern Utah area, populated mainly by the Mormons.
As it is, the Strip is geographically separated from the
rest of the state of Arizona, making it necessary for
the people of the Strip to travel through southern Utah,
a tip of Nevada, into California, and back into Arizona
in order to visit the county seat. Many attempts have
been made to re-align the state boundaries to shift the
Strip into Utah, but none have been successful. This isolation
has benefited polygamous ex-Mormons who have moved into
the area to escape harassment from legal and law enforcement
agencies. The Arizona Strip remains today an isolated,
sparsely populated area in part developed by polygamous
religious sects.
H.
Dean Garrett
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