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Located
on the border of southeastern Utah and northern Arizona,
Monument Valley contains some of the most dramatic rock
formations on the Colorado Plateau. These large blocks
of sandstone were compacted during the Paleozoic era,
while the effects of differential erosion through exfoliation,
wind, and water started during the Cenozoic era. The reddish
hues in the sand and rock of this twenty-five-mile valley
come from iron oxide, while the black streaks, or desert
varnish, that course down the cliffs are manganese oxide.
In addition to sandstone formations, there are also remains
of volcanic activity, El Capitan being the most famous.
The
valley's earliest inhabitants include the Ice Age Paleo-Indian
hunters (12,000-6,000 B.C.), Archaic hunter-gatherers
(6,000 B.C.-A.D. 1), and Anasazi farmers (A.D. 1-1300).
The latter group's pottery styles reflect a regional variation
known as Kayenta Anasazi. As early as the 1300s, San Juan
Band Paiutes frequented the area as temporary hunters
and gatherers. They named it "Valley or Treeless Area
Amid the Rocks" and vested the landscape with supernatural
qualities and mythological stories. For example, Totem
Pole Rock is said to be a god held up by lightning, El
Capitan a sky-supporter, and all of Monument Valley near
Goulding's Trading Post a hogan that faces east.
Spanish
and Mexican incursion into the area was either exploratory
or punitive (in their attempts to control Navajo raiders).
In the early 1860s Kit Carson followed suit by sending
Utes into the region to capture Navajos, who fled to peripheral
areas such as Navajo Mountain. The majority of the Navajos
returned from captivity in 1868 and soon confronted miners
seeking silver. Ernest Mitchell and James Merrick, two
of the most notable, were killed by Utes or Paiutes near
monoliths that still bear the miners' names.
In
1884 President Chester Arthur added this region by executive
order to the Navajo Reservation, but white men's interest
in the area did not wane. Prospectors continued to search
for silver, and in 1906 John Wetherill and Clyde Colville
established a trading post at Oljeto that remained in
operation for four years until Wetherill moved to Kayenta.
In 1924 Harry Goulding established a post which is still
in operation today, although under different management.
During the 1950s Goulding encouraged the employment of
Navajos in the uranium industry as well as in holding
parts in the movie industry. Monument Valley became known
throughout the world when it was featured in such western
film classics as John Ford's Stagecoach, She
Wore a Yellow Ribbon, and Cheyenne Autumn.
Outside influences brought further development in the
form of a Seventh-day Adventist mission and hospital,
and an Episcopalian mission--both in the Oljeto area.
The Navajo tribe has also established a tribal park that
includes some of the most dramatic monoliths, making the
area accessible to thousands of tourists who visit the
region each year.
Robert
S. McPherson
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