Canyonlands National Park

Canyonlands National Park is located in southeastern Utah with the confluence of the Green and Colorado rivers located near the center of the park. The area had been promoted during the 1930s for inclusion into the park system as part of a much larger Escalante National Monument. However, that effort did not succeed, and in 1961 Utah Senator Frank Moss introduced legislation in the United States Senate calling for the establishment of Canyonlands National Park. After considerable opposition within the state, the legislation was passed and on 12 September 1964 President Lyndon Johnson signed the act making Canyonlands the thirty-second national park. The park is the largest of Utah’s five national parks, with a total of 337,258 acres. It is known for its rivers, canyons, mesas, pillars, standing rocks, grabens, and arches. All the rocks in Canyonlands are sedimentary.

Canyonlands was home to the Fremont people and the Anasazi. The Fremont people left records in the form of pictographs and petroglyphs in Horseshoe Canyon and Salt Canyon. The Anasazi built several granaries, like Keyhole Ruin, probably in the twelfth century. Ute and Navajo Indians subsequently occupied the canyons until the late 1800s. They were eventually pushed out of the area by cattlemen. In 1869 and 1871 John Wesley Powell explored the Green and Colorado rivers as they traveled through Canyonlands. Today, the park is divided into three districts, Island in the Sky, Needles, and Maze-Standing Rock.

Island in the Sky is the northernmost district. It is a high and extensive mesa located in the area between the Green and Colorado rivers. Some of the popular attractions in this area are Upheaval Dome, Shafer and White Rim Trails, Grand View Point, and Monument Canyon.

Needles, or the southern district, is the area east of the Colorado River. Angel Arch, Druid Arch, Paul Bunyans Potty, the Grabens, Elephant Hill, and Needles are common attractions. This area contains most of the artifacts from the Fremont people and the Anasazi in Salt, Davis, and Lavender Canyons.

The Maze-Standing Rocks District is located west of the Colorado River after its confluence with the Green River. This section is known for Elaterite Basin, Elaterite Butte, the Maze, Standing Rocks, the Doll House, the Fins, and Ernies Country.

The Canyonlands districts are not connected by inner roads. Visitors must leave the park to enter another district. In several areas, the park is not developed, and many of the sites can be seen only by hiking. Headquarters for the park is in Moab, with visitor centers located in each of the three districts.

Stephanie M. Kawamura

Established: September 1964 by Lyndon B. Johnson

Preservation: Committed to saving many endangered species both plant and animal alike.

Plant Species: Limited desert plant life

Animal Species: Limited endangered species

Hiking Trails: Several well rated hiking trails

VISITATION: Highest in spring and fall.

LOCATION: Southeast Utah

Address: Canyonlands National Park, 2282 S. West Resource Blvd., Moab, UT 84532-3298

Telephone: (435) 719-2313. Backcountry Reservations: (435) 259-4351

OPERATING HOURS, SEASONS: Visitor centers are open daily from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., with extended hours during spring and fall. Visitor centers are closed on some federal holidays.

CLIMATE, RECOMMENDED CLOTHING: The climate in Canyonlands is extremely dry. Most precipitation falls in early spring and late summer. Summer highs often exceed 100 Degrees Fahrenheit, with lows in the 60’s. Fall and Spring temperatures are milder, with highs in the 70’s and 80’s. Winter temperatures range from highs in the 40’s and 50’s to lows well below freezing.

DIRECTIONS: Canyonlands is divided into three land districts which are two to six hours apart by car.

Needles District: From U.S. 191, take Utah 211 west to the Needles.

Island in the Sky District: From US 191, take Utah 313 south to the Island.

Maze District: From Utah 24, take a graded dirt road east to the Hans Flat Ranger Station.

TRANSPORTATION: To Park: Commercial airlines serve Grand Junction, CO and Salt Lake City. From Salt Lake City, a commuter airline serves Moab. Nationwide bus service is available to Green River (fifty miles from Moab) and Crescent Junction (thirty miles away). Amtrak services Green River and Grand Junction, CO. Taxi and shuttle services can be arranged from these locations.

FEES, COSTS, RATES: Fees are $10 for private vehicles, $5 for individuals (good for seven days). Golden Age, Eagle, and Access passes are available and honored. Commercial Tours and Educational Groups fee information call (435) 719-2313.

FACILITIES AND OPPORTUNITIES:

Visitor Center/Exhibits
Island in the Sky District
The Island in the Sky Visitor Center is open 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily (except December 25th), with extended hours spring through fall. Exhibits, publications and information are available, and a park orientation video may be viewed. Bottled water is available for sale at the visitor center. No water is available elsewhere; bring all that you will need.

Maze District
The Hans Flat Ranger Station is open year-round from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. There is a small sales area with books and maps. There are no amenities like food or gas, no entrance fees and no potable water sources in the Maze District.

Needles District
The Needles District Visitor Center is open year-round from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (except December 25th), with extended hours March through October. Exhibits, publications and information are available, and a park orientation video may be viewed. Water is available.

Trails, Roads: Canyonlands has hundreds of miles of backcountry roads and trails. Backcountry permits are required for overnight use and are limited in number. Reservations are recommended.

Lodging: There is no lodging in Canyonlands National Park. Overnight accommodations are available in the nearby towns of Hanksville, Green River, Moab and Monticello.

Camping facilities:Individual camping sites for ten or fewer people are first-come, first-served.

Needles District: Squaw Flat Campground is an ideal base camp for day hikes to popular destinations like Chesler Park, Druid Arch and the Joint Trail. There are 26 sites available on a first-come, first-served basis. Bathrooms, fire grates, picnic tables, tent pads and water available year-round. Group size limit is 10 people and 2 vehicles. Maximum RV length is 28 feet. Fee is $10 per night. Squaw Flat typically fills every day from late March through June and again from early September to mid-October.

Island in the Sky District: Willow Flat Campground is a short walk from one of the finest sunset spots in the park: Green River Overlook. Twelve sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Sites include picnic tables, fire grates and vault toilets. No water. Maximum RV length is 28 feet. Group size limit is 10 people and 2 vehicles. Fee is $5 per night. Willow Flat typically fills every day from late March through June and again from early September to mid-October.

Group Campsites: The Needles District offers three campsites for groups of 11 or more people which may be reserved in advance. The Squaw Flat Group Site can hold up to 50 people and 10 vehicles. The Wooden Shoe Group Site can hold up to 25 people and 5 vehicles. The Split Top Group Site can hold up to 15 people and 3 vehicles. Nightly fees are $3 per person.

Food/supplies: There are no services within Canyonlands. Gas, food and other items are available in nearby towns.

Accessibility: At the Island in the Sky, visitors with mobility impairments can access the visitor center and restrooms, Buck Canyon Overlook and Grand View Point Overlook. In the Needles District, visitors with mobility impairments can access the visitor center and restrooms, Squaw Flat Campground and restrooms and Wooden Shoe Overlook. Other points of interest are accessible with some assistance.

RECOMMENDED ACTIVITIES/PARK USE: Canyonlands is primarily a backcountry destination. Visitors come to the park for sightseeing, hiking, camping, mountain biking, four-wheel driving, and river running. Each district retains its own character and offers different opportunities for exploration. The Island in the Sky offers expansive views from many overlooks, short hiking trails, and is the easiest to visit in a short period of time. The Needles offers more of a backcountry experience, requiring some hiking or four-wheel driving to see the area’s attractions. The Maze is entirely a backcountry area which requires a good deal of hiking and/or four-wheel driving over rough terrain and considerably more time to visit.

Geologic processes have played the most important part in shaping the desert ecosystem of Canyonlands. The arid climate and sparse vegetation allow the exposure of large expanses of bare rock, while the deep canyons of the Colorado and Green Rivers reveal 300 million years of geologic history.

The Evolution of Canyons
Canyonlands is located within a geologic region called the Colorado Plateau. For millions of years, water and wind deposited materials from a variety of environments onto what is now the Colorado Plateau. The area was repeatedly flooded and then dried by intense sun and wind, and the remains of these ancient seas and deserts were slowly compressed into layers of sedimentary rock. Massive geologic uplifts to the east and north brought torrents of mountain rain and snowmelt, carving the deeply incised river channels of the Green and Colorado rivers. Water from nearby mountain ranges like the Abajos, La Sals, and Henrys drains into these rivers, eroding the landscape further into a network of tributary canyons.

Other Formations
Most of the rock stata around Canyonlands are flat. However, massive folds and faults in the land resulted from a thick layer of salt that shifted under the weight of the overlying sandstone. In many places, this movement caused the surface rock to fracture or collapse downward, forming “synclines” and “anticlines” (see glossary). Over time, flash floods and the action of water freezing and thawing enlarged these fractures and eroded the sandstone features into the landscape seen today.

Canyonlands Cliff Profile
Many cliffs in the Canyonlands basin show classic profiles which can be seen throughout the southwest. The layers were formed out of a variety of materials during different periods of geologic time. When and how the layers were deposited has great bearing on how they look today. The layers are listed here in descending order (going back in time). See: Cliff Profile

Desert Varnish
Desert varnish is the thin red to black coating found on exposed rock surfaces in arid regions. Varnish is composed of clay minerals, oxides and hydroxides of manganese and/or iron, as well as other particles such as sand grains and trace elements. The distinctive elements are Manganese (Mn) and Iron (Fe). See: Desert Varnish

The Needles
About ten million years ago, the Colorado Plateau was pushed up thousands of feet and rivers, such as the Colorado and the Green, cut down and carved deep canyons. Water, the primary force of erosion, eats away or weathers rock by attacking the cement holding the sand grains together. Moreover, during storms, rushing water knocks loose sand and rocks as it flows down washes causing additional erosion. The water naturally acts faster on areas of weakness within the rock, such as fractures and cracks. The Needles occur in an area with many fractures called joints.
See: Needles

Upheaval Dome
Canyonlands is a place of relative geologic order. Layers of sedimentary deposits systematically record chapters in the park’s past. With some exceptions, these layers have not been altered, tilted or folded significantly in the millions of years since they were laid down by ancient seas rivers or winds.
See: Upheaval Dome

The female northern bald eagle is larger than the male, averaging 10 to 14 pounds. Males generally weigh 8 to 10 1/2 pounds. The size difference allows the pair to exploit different size prey. The bald eagle stands 2 1/2 to 3 feet tall with an impressive 6 l/2 to 7 1/2-foot wingspan. Their keen eyesight is eight times more powerful than a human’s. The bright yellow feet of adults are strong, unfeathered and equipped with long, sharp, black talons for penetrating and grasping prey. The powerful, bright yellow, hooked bill is used for tearing and dismembering prey. The adult bald eagle is unmistakable, its white head and tail contrasting sharply with its dark body. However, a bald eagle in its first four years of life is predominantly dark brown with varying amounts of white, especially on its undersurface, and immature bald eagles are often mistaken for golden eagles (Aquila chrysaetos).

Mule Deer Desert mule deer, also known as “black-tail deer”, are found in rugged, desert regions of western North America, including the Texas Panhandle and western portions of the state. They are closely related to the Rocky Mountain subspecies, which inhabits mountainous wooded areas. Distinctive features of mule deer are a black-tipped tail, white rump patch, and erect, nine-inch-long ears. Their hide is rusty brown in the summer, and gray in winter, with white undersides year-round.

Bighorn Sheep largest and best-known wild sheep of the North American continent, also called Rocky Mountain sheep. Bighorn sheep have large, curved horns, which may take more than one turn. Their coat is long, full, and coarse. Except during the short mating season, bighorns generally divide into separate male and female herds. They leap at great speed; grip slippery surfaces with shock-absorbing, elastic padded feet; and have acute senses of sight, smell, and hearing.

Western Rattlesnake Western Diamondbacks can attain a length of seven feet, but the average size is between three and four feet. The rattle is the most distinguishing feature of the snake, and is a horny section at the end of the tail, which serves to scare off intruders. After each molt, the rattle of the snake will gain a new section in the rattle. However, adequate information about the age of the rattlesnake cannot be determined by counting the sections of the rattle, as it may have been broken or the snake may have shed more than once a year.

There are extensive hiking trails in the park, providing opportunities for short walks, half or full-day hikes, or week-long backpacking trips. See district descriptions and maps for more details. Lack of water is a limiting factor, and hikers may have to carry their own supply. Pets are not allowed on hiking trails. Permits are required for all overnight trips, and advance reservations are recommended. No permit is required for day hiking.

The park is broken up into three different districts. Each one has it own unique features.

Island in the Sky has the most trails that are readily available for visitors. There are several hikes in the Island in the Sky, which have several degrees of difficulties. For more trails see the visitors center.

Mesa Arch Loop Trail
• Trail description: loose rock
• Estimated time: 1/2 mile, 30 min round trip
• Level of difficulty: easy
This hike takes you through the La Sal Mountains showing hikers the beauty of the mountain pinon and juniper woodland.

Upheaval Dome Overlook Trail
• Trail description: loose rocks, steep inclines
• Estimated time: 1 mile, 45 min. round trip
• Level of difficulty: medium
This trail offers a look at, what some geologists believe, to be the most abnormal geological feature in the world.

Grand View Trail
• Trail description: next to the rim of a cliff
• Estimated time: 2 miles, 1 1/2 round trip
• Level of difficulty: easy
One of the most popular hikes because of the awesome view from the Grand View Overlook.

Neck Spring Loop Trail
• Trail description: Sandy
• Estimated time: 5 miles, 2-4 hours round trip
• Level of difficulty: medium
This trail is offers a wonderful view of the Canyonlands.

Canyonlands Needles. Most of this part of the park is reachable only by foot, amazing since this is the most developed part of the park. For more trails see the visitors center.

Cave Spring
• Trail description: slickrock
• Estimated time: 6 miles, 45 minute round trip
• Level of difficulty: easy
Amazing remnants of the 1800’s cowboy line camp and some fascinating plant life.

Slickrock Foot Trail
• Trail description: deep sand and slickrock
• Estimated time: 2-4 miles, 2-3 hours round trip
• Level of difficulty: medium
Long panoramic view of the park

Angel Arch Backcountry Trail
• Trail description: hard surface
• Estimated time: Little over a mile, 30 minutes round trip
• Level of difficulty: easy
This trail leads to the symbol of Canyonlands, Angel Arch.

Confluence Overlook
• Trail description: wide open with little tree cover
• Estimated time: 5.5 miles, 4-6 hours round trip
• Level of difficulty: medium
Shows an awesome view of the confluence of the Green and Colorado River

Canyonlands Maze. This part of the park is only accessible by four wheel drive roads and hiking trails making this the most natural of the areas in the park. For more trails see the visitors center.

Colorado / Green River Overlook Trail
• Trail description: slickrock
• Estimated time: 5 miles
• Level of difficulty: easy
Amazing scenery of the Standing Rock.

Spanish Bottoms Trail
• Trail description: no trees and has a steep upgrade
• Estimated time: little over a mile
• Level of difficulty: medium
Takes you to Standing Rocks just above the Cataract Canyon.

Horseshoe Canyon
• Trail description: Offers rock art from 2000 years ago
• Estimated time: 6 1/2 miles, 1 day
• Level of difficulty: easy
Horseshoe is a separate trail from canyonlands.

North Trail Canyon
• Trail description: Steep
• Estimated time: 14 miles, all day
• Level of difficulty: medium
At the pinnacle of this hike you get to see the harvest scene when you pass through the White Rim pillars.

Safety Concerns. Fragile desert plants and soils are damaged easily by off-road hiking and riding. Please do not disturb the black crusts on top of the soil. These ‘cryptobiotic crusts’ are living plants and protect the desert from erosion. Leave your bike along the road while hiking to viewpoints. Do not ride off-road to avoid sand or mud.

Mountain bike riding in a national park requires extra care to protect you and the natural and cultural features. All routes are on existing unpaved and four wheel drive roads. Riding on foot trails, closed roads or cross-country is prohibited. Pets may not accompany bicycles. Up-to-date information on weather, water availability and road conditions can mean the difference between life and death. Stop at a visitor center, ranger station or park office for current information.