Capitol Reef National Park
Capitol Reef National Park splashes color for 75 miles from its northern to southern boundaries. The Waterpocket Fold (right), a bulging uplift of rainbow-hued sandstone, creates Capitol Reef National Park’s “reefs” and canyons.
Most of Capitol Reef is an inviting wilderness of sandstone formations. These formations in Capitol Reef National Park include Capitol Dome, Hickman Bridge, and those in splendid Cathedral Valley. In the midst of Capitol Reef’s red rocks and ancient petroglyph panels are large orchards-where fruit may be picked in season in the remnants of Fruita, an early pioneer settlement.
The visitor center is open year-round. Several easy hiking trails and a 25-mile scenic drive lead from its vicinity. Cathedral Valley and other backcountry areas are reached by traveling on high-clearance dirt roads. Capitol Reef National Park is 11 miles east of Torrey or 3 miles west of Hanksville on Hwy 24.
Cottonwood
Primarily found in watersheds and along streams, these short lived, fast growing trees are abundant seed producers. Male and female flowers bloom in separate catkins on different trees in spring before the leaves appear. The cotton-haired seeds, produced in small capsules, are wind dispersed. Because of the mess caused by the mass of “cotton” produced in early summer, this tree is prohibited in some cities
A tall tree up to 30 meters with a broad, open crown and a short trunk 1 meter or more in diameter, Fremont cottonwood is distinguishable by its broad, triangular leaves with their very coarse, rounded teeth and long, flattened stalks. The bark is thick, rough and splitting, light gray or brownish or whitish and smooth on young trunks and the branches are stout and spreading.
Yucca Plant
Yucca is a plant familiar to most Americans who have traveled or lived in the U.S. Southwest or Mexico, where it grows abundantly. A member of the lily family, the plant is also known by the names soap root, Spanish bayonet, Spanish dagger and others.
Pines and Firs
Bristlecone Pine: Bristlecones don’t grow very tall, 60 ft. (18.3m) at the most, but usually much less. Girth of the largest one, the Patriarch is 36.8″ (11.2m), and this tree is relatively young at 1,500 years. The average age is about 1,000 years with only a few over 4,000 years. The oldest trees grow on outcrops of dolomite an alkaline calcareous substrate of low nutrient but of higher moisture content than the surrounding sandstone.
Douglas Fir: The two varieties of Douglas-fir occur in quite different ecosystems. The Interior variety grows in a variety of habitats including open forests with pine grass and mosses beneath. On the coast, the forests are much more productive. Douglas-fir can grow with western redcedar, hemlock, and grand fir, with a lush layer of salal, huckleberries, Oregon-grape, and sword fern beneath. Many animals eat Douglas-fir seeds, including squirrels, chipmunks, mice, shrews, winter wrens, and crossbills. Bears often scrape off the bark on young trees and eat the sap layer beneath.
Pinon Pine: The Pinon Pine is native to the desert southwest’s higher elevations, from 4,000 to 7,000 feet. You will find this tree growing above rocky arroyos in the mountain foothills. This pine is very hardy though, and can tolerate extreme cold and heat, as well as the strong winds. It grows up to 6″ a year, and reaches a mature size of 30′ tall and 20′ feet wide.
Ponderosa Pine: Also known as the Blackjack or Western Yellow Pine, this evergreen was first reported by members of the Lewis and Clark expedition in 1804. Twenty-two years later it was named by the famous Scottish Botanist, David Douglas, for its heavy or “ponderous” wood. The Ponderosa was mistaken for two different trees due to the differences between the younger and older of its kind. For the first 80-100 years, the bark of the Ponderosa is smooth and a dark brown-black, leading to the name Blackjack Pine. Later, the bark of the older tree is an orange-brown color with deep ridges.
Geology
Capitol Reef National Park was established because of the scenic rock domes and narrow canyons found along the trace of the Waterpocket Fold. Indeed, the park boundaries were drawn to encompass most of the Fold. Capitol Reef is a place to enjoy the scenic majesty formed by geologic processes, and also to appreciate the interrelationships between the Earth and all life found in the varied environments within the park – – from the forested slopes of Thousand Lake Mountain, to the green oasis of Fruita, to the barren Bentonite Hills.
The Waterpocket Fold defines Capitol Reef National Park. A nearly 100-mile long warp in the Earth’s crust, the Waterpocket Fold is a classic monocline: a regional fold with one very steep side in an area of otherwise nearly horizontal layers. A monocline is a “step-up” in the rock layers. The rock layers on the west side of the Waterpocket Fold have been lifted more than 7000 feet higher than the layers on the east. Major folds are almost always associated with underlying faults. The Waterpocket Fold formed between 50 and 70 million years ago when a major mountain building event in western North America, the Laramide Orogeny, reactivated an ancient buried fault. When the fault moved, the overlying rock layers were draped above the fault and formed a monocline.
More recent uplift of the entire Colorado Plateau and the resulting erosion has exposed this fold at the surface only within the last 15 to 20 million years. The name Waterpocket Fold reflects this ongoing erosion of the rock layers. “Water Pockets” are basins that form in many of the sandstone layers as they are eroded by water. These basins are common throughout the fold, thus giving it the name “Waterpocket Fold”. Erosion of the tilted rock layers continues today forming colorful cliffs, massive domes, soaring spires, stark monoliths, twisting canyons, and graceful arches.
The most scenic portion of the Waterpocket Fold, found near the Fremont River, is known as Capitol Reef: “capitol” for the white domes of Navajo Sandstone that resemble capitol building rotundas, and “reef” for the rocky cliffs which are a barrier to travel, like a coral reef.
Nearly 10,000 feet of sedimentary strata are found in the Capitol Reef area. These rocks range in age from Permian (as old as 270 million years old) to Cretaceous (as young as 80 million years old.) The Waterpocket Fold has tilted this geologic layer cake down to the east. The older rocks are found in the western part of the park, and the younger rocks are found near the east boundary.
This layer upon layer sequence of sedimentary rock records nearly 200 million years of geologic history. Rock layers in Capitol Reef reveal ancient climates as varied as rivers and swamps (Chinle Formation), Sahara-like deserts (Navajo Sandstone), and shallow ocean (Mancos Shale).
Erosion. Most of the erosion that carved today’s landscape occurred after the uplift of the Colorado Plateau sometime within the last 20 million years. Most of the major canyon cutting probably occurred between 1 and 6 million years ago.
Even in this desert climate, water is the erosional agent most responsible for the carving of the landscape. The pull of gravity, in the form of rock falls or rock creep, plays a major role in the shaping of the cliff lines. Wind is a minor agent of erosion here.
The landforms are a result of different responses of the various rock layers to the forces of erosion. Hard sandstone layers, like the red Wingate and the white Navajo Sandstones, form cliffs. Softer, shale layers, like the Chinle Formation, form slopes and low hills. The barren slopes found in many areas are due in part to the presence of bentonitic clays in the shale which make an inhospitable environment for plants.
The black boulders, found scattered throughout the Fremont River valley and along other drainages, are recent geologic arrivals to Capitol Reef. These volcanic rocks came from the 20 to 30 million year old lava flows which cap Boulder and Thousand Lake Mountains. The boulders made their way to Capitol Reef during the Ice Ages when the High Plateaus supported small mountain glaciers. Landslides, debris flows, and possibly heavy stream outwash from these glaciers carried the boulders to lower elevations in the park.
Cathedral Valley
The scenery of the Entrada Sandstone temples of Cathedral Valley is complemented by evidence of other geologic processes at work. Flowage and dissolution of gypsum, a soluble mineral from the underlying Carmel Formation, created Glass Mountain and the Gypsum Sinkhole. Glass Mountain is an exposed plug of gypsum. The Gypsum Sinkhole formed when a gypsum plug dissolved. Dikes and sills, which are thin bodies of igneous rock and small volcanic plugs, are found in Upper Cathedral Valley. These features formed during volcanic activity 3 to 6 million years ago.
Hiking
Day Hiking. In the Fruita area, there are 15 day hiking trails with trailheads located along Utah Hwy. 24 and the Scenic Drive. These trails offer the hiker a wide variety of options, from easy strolls along smooth paths over level ground to strenuous hikes involving steep climbs over uneven terrain near cliff edges. Hikes may take you deep into a narrow gorge, to the top of high cliffs for a bird’s eye view of the surrounding area, under a natural stone arch, to historic inscriptions…and much, much more! Round trip distances vary in length from less than 1/4 mile to 10 miles. All trails are well-marked with signs at the trailhead and at trail junctions and by cairns (stacks of rocks) along the way. A free guide to the trails is available at the visitor center. Some trails have self-guiding brochures which are available, for a nominal fee, at the trailhead or at the visitor center.
Strenuous Hikes
CASSIDY ARCH
• Length: 1 and 3/4 miles
• Description: climbs steeply from floor of Grand Wash to high cliffs, ending above the arch.
GOLDEN THRONE
• Length: 2 miles
• Description: climbs from bottom of gorge to top of cliffs and views of the base of Golden Throne; panoramas.
CHIMNEY ROCK
• Length: 3 and 1/2 miles
• Description: climbs up switchbacks to upper loop; views of Chimney Rock and panoramas; self guiding trail.
NAVAJO KNOBS
• Length: 4 and 1/2 miles
• Description: follows trail to Rim Overlook; then climbs another 2 1/4 miles for a 360 degree panorama.
COHAB CANYON
• Length: 1 and 3/4 miles
• Description: Strenuous for first 1/4 mile, then moderate; climbs to a hidden canyon above the campground.
OLD WAGON TRAIL
• Length: 3 and 1/2 miles
• Description: follows wagon route on Miners Mountain; panoramic views of the Waterpocket Fold.
FREMONT GORGE
• Length: 2 and 1/4 miles
• Description: crosses Johnson Mesa, then climbs steeply to 1,000 feet above the Fremont River.
RIM OVERLOOK
• Length: 2 and 1/4 of a mile
• Description: ends on top of 1000 foot cliffs with spectacular views of the orchards, campground, and southward along the Waterpocket Fold.
FRYING PAN
• Length: 3 miles
• Description: follows ridge of Capitol Reef escarpment 1
Moderate Hikes
HICKMAN BRIDGE
• Length: 1 mile
• Description: self-guiding nature trail leads under Hickman Natural Bridge.
FREMONT RIVER
• Length: 1 1/4 miles
• Description: Very easy first 1/2 mile, strenuous thereafter; through orchards to overlook of the valley; self guiding trail.
Easy Hikes
CAPITOL GORGE
• Length: 1 mile
• Description: mostly level walking along narrow wash bottom with sheer canyon walls plus Pioneer Register and waterpockets or “tanks.”
GRAND WASH
• Length: 2 1/4 miles
• Description: mostly level walking along narrow wash bottom with sheer canyon walls rising on both sides.
GOOSENECKS
• Length: 1/10 of a mile
• Description: views of Sulphur Creek Canyon, panoramas, interesting rock formations beside the trail.
SUNSET POINT
• Length: 1/3 of a mile
• Description: panoramic views of cliffs and domes; dramatic lighting at day’s end.
History
Called by some Native Americans the “Sleeping Rainbow,” Capitol Reef National Park takes its name from a segment of the Waterpocket Fold, which, with its many domes of white Navajo sandstone over red Wingate sandstone cliffs, resembles the domes of the U.S. and other capitol buildings. The Waterpocket Fold is a north-south upthrust ridge of slickrock nearly unbroken in the one hundred miles of its length from Thousand Lake Mountain to Lake Powell.
Before the fourteenth century, the area was occupied by prehistoric people known as the Fremont Indians, who scratched petroglyphs and painted pictographs on rock walls of the land near trails and watercourses.
In 1878 Franklin D. Richards, a Mormon settler, established Fruita in Wayne County where park headquarters is now located. Other pioneers tried to establish small communities along the Fremont River. Ephraim P. Pectol of Torrey thought of the “Wayne Wonderland” as a candidate for national or state park status in 1910. Joseph H. Hickman, a member of the Utah state legislature convinced his colleagues to set aside 160 acres as a park. In 1933 Pectol was elected to the legislature and convinced it to memorialize Congress to accept Wayne Wonderland as part of the national park system. Capitol Reef National Monument was the result–established by presidential proclamation in 1937. Those most responsible for its establishment include E. P. Pectol, J. E. Broaddus, a Salt Lake writer, and Dr. A. L. Inglesby of Torrey. After national attention was drawn to the Canyonlands area by the creation of Lake Powell, the monument was expanded to include most of the Waterpocket Fold, and in 1971 the natural wonder was declared a park in the national park system.
The park’s Central district includes the original Monument and the road that follows along the river between Fruita and Cainsville. This route along State Highway 24 features wonderful views of colored and eroded rock. The North district is primarily Cathedral Valley, which consists of cliffs and buttes of awesome size and beauty that resemble the shapes of huge gothic buildings. The South district is the long spine of Waterpocket Fold. As a barrier to travelers this spine marks a drift line on the east flank of the plateaus drained by the Colorado River.
Jay M. Haymond
Park Information
VISITATION:
Approximately 706,000, primarily between April and October. Visitation is the highest April through June, September and October; lowest in January.
CONTACT INFORMATION:
Superintendent
Capitol Reef National Park
HC 70 Box 15
Torrey, Utah 84775
Telephone: (435)425-3791
E-Mail: [email protected]
OPERATING HOURS AND SEASONS: The park and campgrounds are open year round. The Visitor Center is open daily (except Christmas Day) from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. with extended hours during the summer season.
CLIMATE: Summer temperatures often climb into the upper 90s (F), but nights cool down into the 50s (F) and 60s (F). The thunderstorm season from July through September brings cloudbursts, flash floods and lightning. Spring and fall are milder with highs generally in the 50s (F) and 60s (F). Daytime winter highs average less than 50 (F). Snowfall is usually light, especially at lower elevations. Humidity is low all year.
Capitol Reef National Park has an arid climate with precipitation averaging just 7.2 inches annually at the park Visitor Center weather station.
DIRECTIONS: The park is located in south-central Utah. From Green River, Utah, take Hwy 24 west through Hanksville; from Richfield, take Hwy 24 east through the communities of Loa, Lyman, Bicknell and Torrey.
TRANSPORTATION:
To Park: by personal vehicle or tour bus via Utah Hwy 24. Nearest commercial airports in Grand Junction, Colorado and Salt Lake City, Utah.
In Park: Personal vehicle, biking, hiking.
FEES: The fee for entering the Scenic Drive is $5. There is no charge for the Scenic Drive for holders of Golden Eagle, Golden Age or Golden Access passes. Campsites in the 70 site Fruita Campground are $10 per night and are available on a first-come, first-served basis. The Group Campground, on a reservation basis, is $3 per person per night with a minimum charge of $50.
FACILITIES AND OPPORTUNITIES: There are no lodging facilities in the park.
RECOMMENDED ACTIVITIES/PARK USE: The park is always open, but Visitor Center hours vary with the season. Activities include: Auto tours, interpretive exhibits and programs, picnicking, hiking, backpacking, mountain biking on established roads, and rock climbing.
RESERVATIONS / PERMITS: We take reservations for our group campground ONLY. Backcountry hiking permits are required for overnight stays in areas outside park campgrounds, and are free. These can be obtained at the park visitor center.
BASIC VISIT RECOMMENDATIONS:
• Drive along the western edge of the Waterpocket Fold.
• Hike to Hickman Bridge.
• See the Petroglyphs.
• Walk through the Historic Orchards of Fruita and pick fruit.
• Visit the Historic Gifford Farmhouse.
SPECIAL EVENTS / PROGRAMS:
Visitor Center Exhibits: Located at Utah Hwy 24, the visitor center museum offers an overview of park features and includes exhibits on geology, archeology, and history as well as a short orientation slide program. A variety of brochures, books, and maps are available for sale. Rangers are on duty to answer questions and provide information including travel and trail information, road conditions and weather updates.
Trails, Roadways: The park is a haven for backcountry hiking. Many trails are available for people of all abilities and time constraints. Capitol Reef also has a number of scenic roadways, many of them unpaved, that can be taken to all corners of the park. Please contact the Visitor Center to ask about specific trails and/or roads.
Programs, Activities: Summer walks, talks, and evening campfire programs. Kids, become a Junior Ranger or explore the park with a Family Fun Pack.
Lodging and Camping Facilities: The Fruita Campground contains 70 sites; 7 sites are for tents only. The remaining sites can accommodate RVs, but there are no hookups. There are also two primitive campgrounds, each with pit toilets, fire grates, and picnic tables (no water).
Although there are no lodging facilities in the park, there are surrounding cities with everything from lodging, private campgrounds with RV hookups, restaurants, and tour outfitters, to local attractions and events.
Food and Supplies: None inside the park. Convenience marts and grocery stores are located in Torrey, Bicknell, and Loa, west of the Visitor Center on Utah Hwy 24.
Harvest Homecoming: Held on a Friday in mid to late September, Harvest Homecoming celebrates the pioneer legacy and fruit harvest of Capitol Reef. Watch as traditional craftspeople demonstrate skills ranging from soapmaking to tinsmithing. Learn about Native American culture or hear stories of the Mormon pioneer settlement. Reenact a day in the life of a student at the Fruita schoolhouse. Come celebrate the crafts, skills and talents of turn of the century pioneers whose isolation required self-reliance and self-sufficiency. Contact the Visitor Center for the date and events schedule of Harvest Homecoming.
Visitor Safety: Capitol Reef is subject to flash flooding from late June through early October. Flash floods can leave you stranded in a canyon or on a backcountry road. Please check with the park’s automated phone system at 435-425-3791 for recorded messages on up-to-date weather and road conditions before you embark to the backcountry.
Photo Gallery
